Fashion Inspired - John Galliano 2010 S/S by Pat McGrath

Inspired by Pat McGrath's creation in 2010 for John Galliano, in class I recreated this look with a few minor tweeks but feel as if I captured a true likeness to this look. 

John Galliano wanted the faces to look like an old trip to hollywood with dramatic signatures such as curled lashes and pencil thin brows which was my favourite thing to recreate! The models were styled with feathers, pearls, laces and colour sprayed flowers. One of my favourite looks was a look shown in the picture below where the model appears to be wearing a wig cap with gold sparkly tape to hold it in place. They all represent an older time in glamorous hollywood that we can only see through classic film and photographs and I feel that Galliano and Pat Mcgrath did this era justice.  

 This was my chosen look and I made a few changes, for example instead of using silver I used gold in the corners of the eyes and on the cupid's bow. The colour on the eyes was taken up to the brow but not as dark and that's something I would have liked to have done looking back at the photos now.

This look has given me inspiration in the creating of my 'Claudia' character for my new project, 

I plan on creating something very similar as one of my Claudia designs. In my mind Claudia likes to see herself as a doll-like girl but similar to this Pat McGrath look shows a sadness and vulnerability. 

As she loves horror I plan on making her look a little more theatrical and over the top. 

My next design will be an adaptation of this design as Claudia likes to change her appearance regularly for dramatic effect.  

Miss Havisham Extra Hair Designs

Here are my other hair designs developing my Miss Havisham character I decided to keep one quite simple by staying quite close to my original design and just ageing the hair really heavily whereas for the other design I decided to create a gibson girl hairstyle with little wedding flowers for Miss Havisham on her wedding day.

Aged Design

Gibson Girl Design

The Phantom of the Opera

The other evening I spent my time watching the 2004 version of phantom of the opera, one of my favourite musical theatre shows and also one of my favourite films.

Phantom of the Opera was originally a book written by Gaston Leroux called La Fantome de L'Opera that was written in 1911 about Leroux's own experiences when visiting the underground lake in the 1880's where the phantom was said to have hid and also 'stumbled upon some poor wretches who had been massacred under the commune in the cellars of the opera.'

Even the front cover of the novel looks horrific and after watching the recent interpretation of The Phantom of the Opera the Gothic Horror elements became very clear to me. 

The film starts with the view of an old tarnished Opera House in the future in black and white as the characters enter it and take part in an auction to buy what remains of the Opera House. The scene is set when the well known Phantom of the Opera song is played and everything in the Opera House turns from old to new as we as an audience are transported back through time to how the Opera House used to look.

I was reminded of it's gothic horror theme when 'Christine' the main character was in her dressing room and the Phantom's voice is heard singing to her in a minor key setting the scene and creepily you see his face appear in the mirror wearing a mask. Admittedly this is a modern interpretation but the mystery of the phantom comes from not seeing his face and also the feeling of uncanny when the phantom reveals his secret shine for Christine in the underground lake where he lives.

In the 1929 version of Phantom of the Opera the silent film follows the story very well but takes quite alot of concentration as there is only music heard and film to tell the story. The Phantom in this appears alot more fictional as it
would compared to the Phantom in the recent interpretation. It was really interesting watching a silent film however trying to figure out what was going on.

Here is the 1929 movie below!

I also found alot of other version of this classic! 

1925

1989

1943

1962

These are various adaptations of The Phantom of the Opera but my favourite by far would have to be the 2004 version with Gerard Butler and Emmy Rossum as the lead roles. 

Here's my favourite scene from the movie when the Phantom takes Christine down to the underground lake! 

Miss Havisham Design Idea 2

My second design idea that I created for Miss Havisham aappears to make miss havisham look alot older than my first design. However for my timed assessment I combined the two ideas and the outcome was a mixture of both!

My first design made Miss Havisham looked somewhat youthful so could possibly be a younger face not so many years after she was jilted at the alter. I decided to pin the hair up into a late 1800's hairstyle as my model has long hair and I wanted to make the most out of the length of the hair. The back was put into a half up half down ponytail that was curled and pinned into a messy looped shape and the back was also curled and pinned up into it. The front was also curled but scooped up onto the head and pinned while the bottom section of the front was securely pinned into the back. 

Here are my timed assessment pictures of my Miss Havisham design on the day with continuity pictures aswell to help me when creating this look again. 

Continuity

As you can see here I've added creases in the forehead incorporating my second design idea and smudges underneath the eyes which was an adaptation on the day. 

I took note that the hair was hanging at the sides of the face and sprayed with hairspray to make the hair appear matted and unwashed.

Duo glue was added to the lips with a little bit of natural lip colour from my Kryolan lip pallete to make them appear dry and dehydrated.

Assessment Photos

Before my assessment I prepped my flowers by staining them with tea and they turned out pretty well! I've also taken extra continuity pictures to remind me on the second week of my assessment. 

Model - Em Houghton 

Make-up, Hair and Styling - Emma-Louise Wandless

Developing my Miss Havisham Character

Here's my first design idea for Miss Havisham for my timed assessment, I created her to still look youthful as this was my first initial plan to design a look for quite recently after she was left by her husband to be. Her skin will still remain pale and grey but with a little more suppleness around her eyes I imagine to be quite dark but with still the remains of some makeup from her wedding day as she wouldnt have been washing. Her lashes would still be in tact with dregs of mascara on them but the thing I would change about this design would be the liner in her waterline. I've decided to use red liner in the waterline to make the eyes appear sore and rubbed as they would have been.

The shading on the face is quite natural with a grey shade on the eyelids and a greyish/purple colour pressed onto the lips.

Estella

I decided to make my Estella design for when she had married, we see in the film that Estella's husband is domestically violent towards her and I wanted to show that and test my skills at creating realistic bruising on the face.

I had a practice at creating this look on my model Hannah yesterday.

I wanted to keep Estella's beauty visible and also to show her vanity and that even after she's been violently abused she still has to look her best and impress people. The Bruising was created using my Kryolan bruise wheel and I used quite natural subtle make-up on my model with pink rosey cheeks using my Kryolan blusher palette, Mac Studio sculpt foundation with Mac studio fix under the eyes in NW10. The eyeshadow palette I used was my Mac Cool 15 palette and I used a cool shade in 'cosy grey' all over the lid with 'blackberry' pushed into the crease. On the lips I used my Kryolan lip palette in a natural pink.

The model's hair is quite short so I decided to put it up into an 1830's styled updo leaving the front out and curled and curling the back into a half up half down ponytail similar to what I designed for Miss Havisham but slightly different as I took all of the hair up into the messy shape to give the illusion of longer thicker hair. The front pieces of hair sat quite nicely around the front of the face as my model had different layers so it added a nice curled shape at the top of the head. 

I'll use these pictures from my practice to recreate the look and possibly look more into bruising to create some realistic shapes and possibly some small cuts also.

My other two hair designs for Estella

My second and third design incorporate a large wrapped plait pinned quite flat on the back of the head one with loose curls and one without with the front sections scooped back into the bun at the back. 

The gibson girl bun at the top is a late Victorian hair design but I wanted to create something different for a different spin on Miss Havisham!